Springtime . . . Spargelzeit!

Spring has come to Germany and that can mean only one thing in the hearts and taste buds of many Germans.   Spargelzeit . . . the season to harvest and consume the native weiße Gold - white asparagus.  I had been an afficionado of the more familiar green asparagus since I was a child; it was a perennial crop on my grandparent’s Michigan farmstead and freshly picked spears found their way to the dinner table daily throughout the spring growing season.

It was not until I was a young university student in Freiburg in Breisgau, in the Black Forest of southwestern Germany, that I was first introduced to the tasty springtime delicacy that is Spargel - white asparagus.  The different colored asparagus

are not fundamentally different varieties, they are only grown differently.  White asparagus is covered with soil because the plant must be protected from light in order to remain pale.  In addition, white asparagus requires a specific combination of soil, temperature and rain in order to develop the perfect taste.  Today much of the German crop can be found in Baden-Wuerttemberg and Hesse, or across the Rhine River in the Alsace region of France.  Although white asparagus is available in the United State throughout much of the year, it is grown primarily in California or Mexico, and I find that its taste, texture, and aroma are no match for Germany’s white gold.  Americans views it more as a kickshaw; a notable contrast to the German fanaticism for this springtime treat.

Spargelzeit last only for two or three months, beginning with the onset of spring in late March to mid-April, and lasting until “Johanni," the birthday of John the Baptist on June 24.  The rules in hand: “Stich den Spargel nie nach Johanni“ [never pick asparagus after Johanni] and “wenn die Kirschen sind rot, Spargel ist tot” [when the cherries are red, asparagus is dead’] . . . not literally dead as asparagus is a perennial vegetable.  It  requires sufficient time to regenerate for the next season.  Harvesting white asparagus is also very labor-intensive as each individual spear must be carefully exposed by hand as deeply as possible and then "pricked" just above the root crown.

When shopping during Spargelzeit, one should always look for the freshest spears.  The head of the spears should be tightly compressed and they should be moist yet firm and white

without any discoloration.  They should be prepared and consumed as soon as possible although they can be kept wrapped in a moist towel in the refrigerator for a couple of days.  Some people will freeze Spargel, but in my humble opinion it always tastes best when served fresh.

There is no muss or fuss in the proper preparation of Spargel.  Simply place the fresh spears in a pot of boiling water for 15 to 20 minutes (do not overcook), adding a little salt, sugar, and butter.  Some will add lemon juice to the stock to maintain the white color. This can be tricky, however, as too much lemon juice can overshadow the unique taste and aroma of Spargel.  Once plated, many Germans will eat it with melted butter and a light herbal garnish.  Others might pair it with new potatoes (boiled separately from the Spargel), some hollandaise sauce, and perhaps thin slices of cured ham.  Still others might serve it as a side dish with cutlets or sausages.  Many Germans favor a mild white wine while others will wash it all down with a glass of beer.   To each his own.  I prefer to eat my Spargel with a few small new potatoes so that I might enjoy its inimitable flavor.  Simplicity at its best.

Spargelzeit is a special time indeed.   What better way to celebrate the advent of Spring?